Once you know the basics about sewing, it’s quite easy to make little changes and tweaks to a pattern to customize it. I showed you my casual version of the Continental Blouse a while ago. Now I’ll show you how I made it so you can do it too.
First of all, when I was cutting out my basic pieces, I added 2″ to the length of the blouse. I’m tall, and since all Simplicity patterns are developed for a woman who is 5’6″, I usually add a little length to accommodate my height. However, now that the blouse is finished, I’m tempted to shorten it a bit, so next time I’ll only add 1/2″ and I think that will be exactly the length I want.
I also added a little fullness to the ruffle at the back by positioning the fold line of the pattern piece 1″ from the fold and cutting the ruffle as a rectangle instead of tapered, like the pattern piece itself. This just gives the back a little extra sweep and drama and loosens up the fit a bit at the same time.
Then I added a long V at the front neckline. In order to do this, I made a simple facing for the front of the blouse. Here’s how to do it yourself:
1. Find and mark the center fold on the front blouse piece. Then decide how deep to make your V. (I made mine 5″, not including the seam allowances, just for a general reference.)
2. Trace the neckline, the center front line, and the depth of the V onto a piece of paper. Then, on your paper, mark a line ½” from either side of the center front line at the neckline, and join the lines with a ruler or straight-edge to make a V.
3. Mark the width of the facing, measuring out about 1 1/2″ from the V markings. I like to make a gentle V at the bottom of the piece to taper the end as shown. This will be your pattern piece, so cut it out and then cut a facing from your fabric using this new pattern piece. Transfer the center front and V markings to the wrong side of your fabric so it will be easy to match and sew the facing to the front of the blouse.
4. Finish the outside edges of the facing, keeping in mind that this edge may show when the blouse is worn. I like to give it a clean finish by first folding the edges to the wrong side by ¼”, and then edgestitching the innermost fold.
5. Now pin the facing to the front of the blouse, right sides together, and stitch along the V marking, pivoting at the tip of the V and taking one horizontal stitch before stitching up the other side. This little stitch will make clipping easier in the next step.
6. Once you’ve stitched, you can cut down the center front line through both layers of fabric—the front blouse and the facing—right up to the point of the V. Be careful not to cut into your stitches, but cut very close to them at the tip of the V. While you’re cutting you can also trim the seam allowances near the top of the V so they’re about ¼”; you won’t need the full ½” up there, and trimming them will reduce bulk in the finished neckline.
7. Turn the facing to the wrong side of the blouse and press it. If you’re getting any puckers at the V, you may need to clip a little closer to your stitching. Once you’ve smoothed the facing, pin it in place and edgestitch the facing to the blouse to finish it.
8. Now you can sew the rest of the blouse. When it comes time to attach the narrow bias facing at the neckline, give the facing edges a clean finish at the V by folding the short ends to the wrong side, flush with the edges of the V when you attach the facing.
I hope you’ll show off your finished blouses in the Lisette Flickr group, and now that you know how to make a simple facing you’ll probably find lots of ways and places to use it.
I’ve always loved this picture that hangs in the lobby at Simplicity headquarters here in New York. When I was in the office earlier this week I snapped a photo because I thought you might enjoy it too.
Everything about it is great: the color palette (mustard, black, and cream with shots of orange and red), the fish printed in stripes, the black details on the clothing, the tailoring, the tiny waists, the little bolero jackets (and all this time I thought I was anti-bolero), the sunglasses (!), the fonts, and especially that amazing hat in the center.
I’d wear that hat in a heartbeat, and it would feel completely appropriate today, I think. Actually, I’d wear the whole outfit, come to think of it. But I wouldn’t cinch my waist, nor would my waist allow itself to be cinched, like that. I’m certain of that.
And here is the scene in the conference room as we confirmed which fabrics we’ll be using with each of the new spring 2012 patterns. And which garments will be shot on the model as opposed to which will be shot flat.
Sample yardage has just arrived, and the photo shoot is in two weeks. I need to start collecting accessories and working with the stylist at Simplicity so we have everything we need.
And meanwhile I’m nearly done with the fall 2012 fabric collection. It’s a constant cycle, always working about a year ahead while simultaneously juggling the current and almost-current materials. I’m always excited to show you what’s next!
Have you noticed all the color that’s showing up in fashion this fall? The stores are showing lots of bright, pure colors, and on the runways for fashion week everyone seems to be focusing on color and especially on prints for spring.
Here are some photos I took while I was out shopping today. This is such a refreshing change for New York, where we’re usually all about neutrals and black. Not this season!
How are you wearing color right now? Are you mixing colors like the mannequins in these windows, or are you focusing on a single color? Or are you wearing color at all?
I don’t get to teach as much as I would like anymore, but I still make a point of taking a few instructional engagements every year. One of the events I’ve agreed to do next year has just started to take registrations.
And then after checking in, we spend our time making stuff! How great is that? I love the diversity of the class offerings, and I’m only a little disappointed that I’ll be teaching every day because I’d just as soon take some of the other classes that are being offered.
On April 20 I’ll be teaching the Oliver + S Sleepover Pajamas pattern and giving lots of little tutorials and sewing tips and tricks along the way, like how to lengthen and shorten a pattern.
And then on April 21 we’ll be sewing from an upcoming spring Lisette pattern for a really flattering and cute A-line dress. If you click through to the class description you can see some of my early sketches of the dress. I just approved this dress at the third fitting last week, so we’ve been working hard to make this pattern absolutely perfect for you. I forgot to take photos at the fitting, so you’ll just have to go by my sketches and trust me on this for now. The dress can be made sleeveless, with short cap sleeves, or with 3/4 sleeves. You can also choose the length: mini dress, just above the knee, or full-on maxi dress. I’ll help you to make a muslin so you can get a great fit, then we’ll talk about fabric selection and get started with your sewing. So you’ll be all ready for summer, no matter which style you choose, and you’ll be able to make lots more dresses once we’ve gotten a good fit for you.
Follow the links above for complete class descriptions, and I hope you can make it to the retreat. It will be fun!
This past July I had the pleasure of working with a team from Interweave, the folks who publish Stitch magazine, to record a couple of instructional videos right here in our studio in Brooklyn. The first of those videos, Apparel Sewing Basics, is now available for purchase as a download (it will be available as a DVD soon, too, if you prefer a hard copy) at the Interweave website.
In this video I introduce you to my favorite sewing tools, talk about selecting and preparing your fabric, and show you how to get your pattern ready to sew. Then I demonstrate how to sew curves, corners, gathers and ease-stitches, and edgestitching. I’ve included lots of little tips and tricks that will help you as you sew and as you plan your sewing.
The 90-minute video also includes some interviews and other fun bits in between the serious sewing. Here’s a little preview of what you’ll see.
I had so much fun making this video! Tricia Waddell, the editor of Stitch, is a real professional and a pleasure to know. We bounced around a lot of ideas and had a great time preparing for the filming. Garrett and Caroline from the production team were fantastic, energetic and enthusiastic. They did a beautiful job bringing everything together.
I’ll tell you more about the whole process later, and I’ll let you know when the DVD is available. You’ll be able to purchase it on our website, too.
I had some fun messing around with the Continental Blouse pattern the other day. I wanted to make a really casual, relaxed summer blouse and decided to loosen up the pattern a bit for a different look to the pattern.
I used one of the new Little Lisette sateen prints. (I love this one. It’s inspired by Indian block prints and has a playful feel but is certainly sophisticated enough the adults).
These photos were taken by my 6-year-old on our way out to the studio the other day. She’s not a bad photographer, is she?
I’ll give you some details on the changes I made soon so you can make them yourself if you’re interested.
5. Now pin the facing to the front of the blouse, right sides together, and stitch along the V marking, pivoting at the tip of the V and taking one horizontal stitch before stitching up the other side. This little stitch will make clipping easier in the next step.
8. Now you can sew the rest of the blouse. When it comes time to attach the narrow bias facing at the neckline, give the facing edges a clean finish at the V by folding the short ends to the wrong side, flush with the edges of the V when you attach the facing.
